Street Rod - Manual
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION................. 2
Starting the Game............ 3
Making Selections............ 3
Entering Your Name........... 3
Using the Newspaper.......... 3
2. THE GARAGE................... 4
Cars......................... 6
Car Info..................... 6
Parts........................ 6
Check Out Newspapers......... 7
Squelch It/Catch Some Tunes.. 7
Time to Quit................. 7
Calendar..................... 7
Hit the Street............... 8
Pop the Hood................. 8
Pop the Hood - Parts......... 8
Pop the Hood - Tune.......... 9
Change Transmission.......... 10
Change Tires................. 10
Stickers..................... 11
Bumpers...................... 11
The Roof..................... 11
New Paint Job................ 11
Wanna Tank................... 11
The Pump..................... 12
3. THE DRIVE-IN................. 14
Challenging Drivers to Races. 14
Types of Races............... 14
Bets......................... 15
Returning to the Garage...... 16
Checking Out the Competition. 16
4. DRIVING...................... 16
Off the Mark................. 16
Changing Speed............... 18
Blowing Your Engine.......... 18
Dropping a Transmisiion...... 18
Changing Gears............... 18
Steering..................... 18
Bumping and Passing.......... 19
The Police................... 19
Crashing..................... 19
5. WINNING...................... 20
A Race....................... 20
The Game..................... 20
6. HINTS & TIPS................. 22
7. CAR SPECIFICATIONS........... (see STROD2.DOC)
8. REFERENCE CARD............... (see STROD.DOC)
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INTRODUCTION
Ok, so shool's out for the summer. So how are you gonna spend your time?
Workin' for old man Finnegan in his hardware store? Naw, though you do
need the cash. Twistin' the nights away at the soda shop? Naw, not very
exciting. What about those measly few bucks in your pocket? You gonna
spend them the first week to impress Becky Sue? Naw, she still wouldn't
look at you.
What say you put your time and your bucks to good use this summer. You're
a good grease-monkey and a better driver. Buy an old crate, soup it
up, and cruise down to Bob's Drive-In. There's always some action there.
Some real action: racing. You know you can beat half of those twerps
already. And if you can raise some quick cash and buy a better rod,
you can beat the rest. You know with the right car you can beat the
king. Then you'll have some cash and Becky Sue.
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STARTING THE GAME
You can play Street Rod either from your hard drive or from a floppy
drive. For more specific instructions, refer to the Street Rod
Reference Card.
MAKING SELECTIONS
You can play Street Rod using one of three control devices: a keyboard,
a mouse, or a joystick. To make a selection on the screen, move the
cursor over the part of the screen that you want to select. The cursor
looks like a wrench in the garage, and like a hand elsewhere. If you're
using the keyboard, the cursor keys and the numeric keypad are used to
moce the cursor. You'll know that the cursor is in the right place
when you see a message at the bottom of the screen that is the same
as the action you want to do. You then must press the "selector" for
the control device that you're using. The selector for the mouse is
the left mouse button; for the joystick, it's the fire button; for the
keyboard, it's the space bar.
You can also use the Return/Enter key to make some choices. When one
of the options on the screen is surrounded by a highlighted box, you
can select that choice by pressing the Return/Enter key. If you want
to select some other choice, just move the cursor and press the selector.
Many choices can also be activated by special keys on the keyboard.
Refer to the Street Rod Reference Card for details.
ENTERING YOUR NAME
Use the keyboard to enter the name you want to use during the play of
the game. When you save a game it will use the name you enter here.
When you're done, select OK to begin playing Street Rod.
USING THE NEWSPAPER
The first thing you gotta do is look through the paper for an old
crate that you can afford. Move the cursor to the USED CARS section
of the newspaper and press the selector. You'll see the first page
of the car section of the classifieds. You can go to the next page
by moving the cursor to the column on the right side of the page
and pressing the selector. Likewise, you can get to the previous
page by doing the same thing on the left column. The new car section
flows into the car parts section of the paper.
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Select a car that you can afford. You will be given the option to see
it before you buy it, or you can buy it without looking at it. After
you buy a car, you will automatically go to the garage. If you want to
got to the garage without buying a car, move the cursor to the picture
of the garage in the lower right corner of the screen and press the
selector.
You can also use the paper to buy parts later in the game. Just move
the cursor to the AUTO PARTS heading and press the selector. You can
go to the next page and previous pages and return to the garage in the
same way you did it when you bought your car.
If you've selected the paper in error, you can also get back to the
garage by selecting the front page.
THE GARAGE
The garage is where you'll hang out between races. Go there to
customize your rod, or to repair any damage caused by your lousy
driving. The cursor looks like a wrench in the garage. You make
choices in the garage by moving the wrench around the screen. As you
point to an object with the top of the wrench, you'll see messages
appear below the garage picture. You can choose to do what a message
says by pressing the selector. Each of these choices is explained
on the next several pages. Watch your wad - just about everything
cost. Watch the calendar, too - any work you do on your car is gonna
take time.
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CARS
If you own more than 1 car, you can switch between them by moving the
wrench over the strip on the wall showing the name of the car and
choosing CARS. You'll see a menu listing all the cars you own. Move
the cursor to the car you want to work on and press the selector to
highlight it. Then select SWITCH IT. The car that's in the garage
will be yanked out and replaced by the one you've selected.
By selecting SELL IT, you can sell the highlighted car. A bit of
haggling over the price is allowed and can get you more money, but
takes time you could use for racing. Type in an initial offer at the
prompt and select MAKE OFFER. Depending on the price, the buyer will
either reject your offer or make a counter offer. If the buyer rejects
your offer, you can counter with a lower price and bargain from that
new price.
CAR INFO
To check out what parts are on your car, move the wrench over the pad
on the table, select CAR INFO, and you'll find out. You'll also get
information about how much gas is in the tank, the maximum speed of
your car, and the percentage of wear and tear on your parts.
Keep a close eye on the percentage of wear on your parts, 'cause
driving with worn-out parts can result in a crash. All parts, from
the engine to the carburetor, will wear down as you use them, and the
time it takes to wear out varies with each part.
PARTS
To see what the parts you own that are not on your car, move the
wrench over the clipboard hanging on the wall and select PARTS. You
can also get rid of any extra parts by choosing the part you want to
sell from the menu. Highlight the chosen part with the cursor and
select SELL IT, and you will be made an offer for the part. To accept
the offer, select OK, otherwise select NO THANKS.
The price that you'll be offered for the part will depend on its
original price when new and the amount of wear and tear on it. Parts
that are worn past a certain level won't be worth anything. Tires,
whether they're new or used, can't be resold.
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CHECK OUT NEWSPAPERS
If you need some new parts, or a new car, move the wrench over the
papers you've left on the floor, select CHECK OUT NEWSPAPERS and select
the part or car you want just like you did at the beginning of the
game (See USING THE NEWSPAPER).
SQUELCH IT/CATCH SOME TUNES
If the radio's on and you'd like to turn it off, move the cursor to
the radio on the top shelf until you see the message SQUELCH IT. Press
the selector. This turns off the music but leaves the other sound
effects on. If the radio's off and you want to turn it back on, the
message you'll see will be CATCH SOME TUNES.
TIME TO QUIT
If you want to save a game, start a new game, restart an old game,
or just plain quit, move the wrench over the clock and select TIME TO
QUIT. You can have more than 1 saved game, but be sure to use different
names. For specific instructions, refer to the Street Rod Reference
Card.
CALENDAR
Shool starts September 15 - if you're gonna beat the king you'd better
not let the summer slip by too fast. If you move the wrench over the
calendar on the wall and press the selector you'll see what the date
is. The current date has a box around it; the beginning and ending
dates for the game are circled.
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HIT THE STREET
When you're ready to head to Bob's Drive-In for a little action, move
the wrench outside and select HIT THE STREET. You'll cruise on down
there. You can skip the cruising by pressing the selector.
POP THE HOOD
You can install new parts under the hood by moving the wrench over the
hood and selecting POP THE HOOD. Once you've popped the hood, you'll
see a window showing you what engine, manifold, and carburetor are in
the car. You can change any of the three, or tune the engine.
POP THE HOOD - PARTS
Once you've popped the hood, to replace a part you'll first have to
remove the old part. Do this by moving the wrench over the bolts
holding the part in, and pressing the selector twice to take off the
bolt. When all bolts holding a part down have been removed, the part
will disappear. If you remove a bolt by mistake, just press the
selector on the empty hole, and the bolt will return. Press the
selector twice on the bolt to fasten it back in. You'll have to
remove the carb to get to the manifold, and both of those parts to
get to the engine block. You also have to disconnect the wires
leading to the engine block to remove it.
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When you put the engine back together, you have to replace the parts
in the reverse order that they were removed, and connect the engine
wiring. To put parts back into your car, move the wrench over PARTS
and press the selector. You'll see a menu listing what you have
available to be installed next. If you want a part that's not listed
in the menu, this would be a good time to buy it from the newspaper
(USING THE NEWSPAPER). Highlight the part you want and select CHANGE.
The part and the bolts needed for it will appear in their proper place.
Once again, you have to press the selector twice one each bolt to
torque it down.
Make sure you choose parts that will fit on your car. Different makes
of engines and parts will only fit on certain car types. For example,
you can only put a GM engine in a Chevy. Read the description of the
part in the paper carefully before you buy it. See the Street Rod
Reference Card for more details. Some parts fit all cars.
If you try HIT THE STREET and you get a message that your car's not
running, check that all parts are in place and that all bolts are
securely tightened to the engine and transmission.
POP THE HOOD - TUNE
If you select TUNE after you've popped the hood, you will see a
picture of the timing belt for your car. If you move the wrench
over the up arrow and press the selector, you'll retard the engine.
If you move it over the down arrow and press the selector you'll
advance the engine. In general terms, a retarded engine is better for
road racing. The red notch marks a position that's about evenly
split between advanced and retarded. You can only tune when all parts
are in place and all bolts securely tightened.
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CHANGE TRANSMISSION
To put a different transmission in your car, move the wrench under the
middle of your car and choose CHANGE TRANSMISSION. The transmission
will appear on the screen. You can remove it, select another
transmission, and replace it just like you do for parts under the hood.
Just as for other parts, make sure you get the right transmission for
your make of car.
You have a choice of four types of transmissions: automatic, three
speed, four speed, and four speed racing. The performance and
acceleration characteristics increase as you move from the automatic
to the four speed racing. So does the cost.
An automatic transmission, while being the easiest to drive (you only
have to shift from neutral to drive), is the slowest in terms of
acceleration and maximum speed. You might want to choose a car with
an automatic transmission at the beginning of a game when you're still
inexperienced with driving and when the competition's fairly easy.
Then, you can move up to the four speed racing as you improve your skill
and the opponents get tougher.
Like all other parts on your car, your transmission will show wear and
tear according to how often you race. Refer to the CAR INFO clipboard
in the garage to see the percentage of wear on your present transmission.
Road races will wear down your parts more quickly than the drag races.
CHANGE TIRES
If you move the wrench over the jack and press the selector, you will
be able to put new tires on your car. Choose the set you want to
use from the parts menu. You can buy new tires from the newspaper.
Remember that tires cannot be resold. So once you buy 'em, they're
yours for keeps.
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STICKERS
You can put a custom sticker on your car by moving the wrench over the
little paint cans on the shelf and selecting STICKERS. Use the wrench
and the selector to choose one of the available stickers. To remove
a sticker you have to choose NEW PAINT JOB (see below).
BUMPERS
You can remove the front or rear bumper by moving the wrench over the
bumper you want to remove and pressing the selector when you see the
message BUMPER. You can replace a removed bumper in the same way.
If a bumper's gone your car will be lighter and its wind resistance
less, but it will be more likely to crash when bumped. You cannot strip
the bumpers (or chop the roof) off of some of the cars.
THE ROOF
If you want to chop the roof, or restore a roof to its original
condition, move the wrench over the roof and press the selector.
Chopping the roof lightens your car and reduces its wind resistance,
but takes a lot of time.
NEW PAINT JOB
If you want to change the color of your car, move the wrench over the
spray can on the floor and select NEW PAINT JOB. As you move through
the available colors, the spray can will change to show you the new
color. When you see the color you want, select GO AHEAD. A new
paint job will not only change the color of your car, but will cover
any existing stickers. Note, that this feature will only work on
computers with certain color options.
WANNA TANK?
When you need to get some fuel for the old gas-guzzler, move the
wrench over the gas can on the floor and press the selector. If your
tank's not full, you'll cruise over to the gas station. You can
skip the cruising by pressing the selector.
Keep an eye on your tank, 'cause if you run too long without getting
gas, you might come up short in a race. Check with the CAR INFO
clipboard in the garage to see how much gas you've got in your tank.
Keep some dough on hand too - gas ain't free.
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THE PUMP
Once at the station, you can pump your own gas or let the attendant
do it for you. Of course, doing it yourself is cheaper but not as
impressive to the gang. To pump it yourself, move the cursor over the
handle on the first pump and press the selector. Then move the handle
to the open gas cap in the side of your car and press the selector.
If you're too slow, or just wait around for a bit, the attendant will
do it for you.
You've got to get some gas before you can leave the station.
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THE DRIVE-IN
Bob's Drive-In's where it's at. While you can hang out here and check
out the competition, the main reason to go to Bob's is to challenge
other drivers to races. You can either drag race or road race. If
you're good, you can win some bucks. If you're better, you can win
the other guy's rod. If you're the best, you can beat the king.
CHALLENGE DRIVERS TO RACES
While you're at Bob's, other drivers will cruise past you. If you
want to challenge any driver to a race, postion the cursor over his
car and press the selctor. You can also call an opponent by moving
the cursor over the guy leaning against the post and pressing the
selector. You will see a list of everyone who's already driven by
you since you've been at Bob's. Highlight the name of the driver
you want to call and select CALL, and he'll cruise by.
Select the arrows on the right side of the menu to scroll through
the names. The single arrows scroll one line at a time, while the
double arrows scroll one page at a time.
TYPE OF RACES
There are two kinds of races: drag races and road races. If you want
to drag race, you'll race on a straight course that's about a quarter
of a mile long.
If you want to road race, you'll race on a winding course that's about
two and a half miles long. Position the cursor over the type of
race you want and hit the selector.
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Drag races test your reflexes in shifting and acceleration - basically
how fast you can get off the line. It takes real skill to time your
shifting and acceleration so that you get a good jump without blowing
your engine or jumping the light. Usually, the guy who gets the jump
at the start will have the advantage.
Road races test your skill over a more diverse driving area. You'll
need to control your speed as you hit blind turns and learn to
downshift at the right times. If you brake too hard on a turn,
your speed will drop like a rock, giving your opponent a chance to
blow past you. If you don't brake hard enough, you'll be kissing
dirt on the side of the road.
BETS
If you're drag racing, you can race for kicks or for dough. If you're
raod racing, you can race for dough or for pink slips. If you race for
pink slips and win, you'll get your opponent's car. If you lose, you'll
have to go back to the paper for another car. To place a bet, move
the cursor over the amount you want to bet and press the selector.
If the other guy doesn't like that amount, you can try another bet
with him before he drives off.
Get to know your opponents and what bets they'll accept. Some guys
will only accept a road race challenge after you've run a drag race.
Others will race you on any terms. The best drivers, like the king,
will only race you after you've had a few victories under your belt.
If you challenge someone to a road race and he refuses, try
challenging him to a drag race. It's likely that he'll accept.
Some guys are impressed by how cool your car looks and will be more
willing to race you. The better your rod looks (paint job, etc...),
the cooler you'll be.
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RETURNING TO THE GARAGE
You can return to the garage from the Drive-In by moving the cursor
to the bottom of the screen. When you see the message BACK TO THE
GARAGE press the selector and you'll cruise back. Once again, you
can skip the cruising sequence by pressing the selector.
CHECKING OUT THE COMPETITION
You can see what another driver has under his hood by doing the same
thing that you do in the garage to look under your hood: move the
cursor over the opponent's hood and press the selector. A picture of
his engine will appear on screen.
Think carefully about what he's got under his hood. If his engine
is bigger than yours, think twice about challenging him. But, if you've
got the hustle and spunk, you just might want to race him anyway.
DRIVING
Driving is the same for both drag races and road races. When the
light goes green, give 'er some gas, slip 'er into gear, and make
tracks. You can steer, change speed, change gears, bump the other
guy, and pass. You can even crash or be stopped by a cop.
OFF THE MARK
You have to wait until the light is green before you can move. If you
start too soon the race will be cancelled. You won't lose anything,
but you'll have to make another challenge.
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CHANGING SPEED
How you accelerate or decelerate depends on the control device you're
using. If you're using the keyboard, press the up arrow to accelerate
and the down arrow to decelerate. If you're using a mouse, click the
right mouse button to accelerate and drag the mouse towards you to
decelerate. If you're using a joystick, push the joystick forward
to accelerate and pull it back to decelerate. For more info, refer
to the Street Rod Reference Card.
BLOWING YOUR ENGINE
If you crank your engine up too far you can blow it. If you have a
tachometer in your rod, you will be able to see the number of engine
RPM's; when the indicator goes into the red or shaded zone you're in
danger of blowing your engine. If you blow an engine, you'll be
placed back in the garage where you'll have to replace everything
under the hood before you can hit the streets again. You'll lose
any bet you might have made for the race, and you'll lose time and
money for the parts.
It's nearly impossible to blow your engine when you're using an
automatic transmission, so you might want to consider this when
you're green.
DROPPING A TRANSMISSION
If you keep the accelerator pressed while shifting gears (called
"speed shifting") you increase the chance of dropping your
transmission. If you drop it, you will have to go back to the
garage for another. You can avoid having this happen by releasing
the accelerator when you shift.
With an automatic transmission, you can "speed shift" without fear
of dropping the transmission.
CHANGING GEARS
If you've got a manual transmission, you can change gears by pressing
the selector for the control device you're using. If you press the
selector while you're accelerating, you'll go into the next higher
gear. If you press it while decelerating, you'll go into the next
lower gear. Refer to the Street Rod Reference Card for more details.
STEERING
You steer either by using the left and right cursor keys or by moving
the mouse or joystick to the left and right.
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BUMPING AND PASSING
You can pass your opponent's car if you are faster than he is. Once
you pass him you'll see him in your two rear mirrors. You can also
try to get an advantage by bumping him. You can bump him by pulling
along side of him and steering towards him. Once you've successfully
bumped him, he'll usually appear in your rearview mirror. Be careful,
though - he can bump back. If you've removed your bumpers, your
chances of crashing are greater.
THE POLICE
If you exceed the posted speed limit, there's a chance that a cop will
come after you. When you hear a siren, you'll know that he's closing.
If you slow down to the speed limit as soon as you hear the siren, the
amount of your ticket will be fairly low. You can try to outrun him,
but if you're not successful he'll pull you over and gove you a ticket
the size of Texas. The faster you're going, the more you'll have to
pay.
Make sure you've got enough dough on hand to pay for the ticket,
'cause if you're short, you'll be hauled off to the slammer and the
game will be over.
CRASHING
If you run off the highway or are bumped off by your opponent, you'll
crash. When you crash, you'll be told how much it will cost to repair
the damage. If you really wiped out, or if your car's been repaired
several times before, you may only be able to get scrap value for
your wreck. Otherwise, you can choose whether or not to repair
your rod. If you junk it, you'll get whatever its scrap value is.
If you repair it, the cost of the repairs will be deducted from your
wad and you will be placed back in the garage, ready to go. (You'll
only have stock tires, however.)
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It will cost more to repair your rod the faster you're going when
you crash. You can drive off the road for a while, but you'll
slow down and start accumulating damage. When the damage reaches a
certain level, you'll crash.
WINNING
A RACE
You win a race by being the first across the finish line. If you win,
you'll see the time it took you to finish and your top speed. If you
lose, you'll see the percentage of the race that you completed when
your opponent crossed the finish line and your top speed. You'll also
lose whatever you bet, which could be your rod. If you jump the light,
the race is cancelled.
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THE GAME
The king of the Drive-In owns the hottest rod around and has the best
looking girlfriend. To win the game you have to beat the king before
the summer is over. The king won't even agree to race you until you're
good enough. So you'll have to race and win enough money to buy a
great car or to get your car in the best shape possible. Once you're
the best, you can become the king.
HINTS AND TIPS
1) Retarding your engine gives you quicker acceleration in the lower
gears (1st and 2nd), which is better for drag racing.
2) Advancing your engine gives you better acceleration in the higher
gears (3rd and 4th), which is better for road racing.
3) Racing "JUST FOR KICKS" is a good way to practice your driving and
check out opponents without risking any money, but don't take too many
practice runs, or you'll waste valuable time.
4) Once you've successfully bumped your opponent and he falls behind
(and appears in your rearview mirror), hit the gas to create the
biggest lead possible.
5) If you vary your position on the road as you drive, you can block
your opponent coming up from behind and keep him from passing you.
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6) For a quicker jump off of the staring line, rev your engine while
the light is red. Just as the light turns green, shift into first
gear. This method will prevent any lag time that may occur when you
shift from neutral to first gear. Be careful when you use this
method, 'cause you could drop your transmission.
7) The guys at Bob's Drive-In are reall impressed by "cool" cars,
so you might want to spiff up your street rod before you cruise
down there.
8) When you first begin to play the game, it might be a good idea
to pick a car with an automatic transmission so that you don't have
to shift. It's almost impossible to blow your engine or drop your
transmission when you're driving an automatic. After you get used to
steering and driving, then you can get a car with a stick shift.
9) All parts used in your car will eventually wear out, so keep a
close eye on them (you can check their status in the CAR INFO clipboard
in the garage). A worn part can result in decreased performance or
worse, a crash. So don't try to run your car into the ground, 'cause
it could cost you a lot more in the long run.
10) Learn to balance your resources carefully. Remember that you
only have the summer, 12 weeks, in order to beat the king, so try
not to waste any time. Many times during the game, you'll have to
decide whether to sacrifice time in order to gain other advantages
such as money or racing experience. With a bit of practice and luck,
you'll find the right balance and become the King Street Rodder.
---
Presented by SKID ROW
CAR SPECIFICATIONS
1932 Ford Deuce Coupe
(2 door roadstar)
Price: $460
Weight: 2203 lbs
Total Produced: 520
Engine: Cast Iron L-head 8-cylinder
Displacement: 221 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.06 x 3.75 inches
Compression Ratio: 5.5 : 1
Brake horsepower: 65 @ 3400 R.P.M.
3 main bearings
Mechanical valve lifters
Carburetor: Special Ford Detroit
lubricator: downdraft
Transmission: Sliding gear with 3 forward
gears and 1 reverse
Wheelbase: 106 inches
Length: 165.5 inches
1932 Ford Sedan (2 door Tudor sedan)
Price: $500
Weight: 2508 lbs
Total Produced: 57,930
Engine: Cast iron L-head 8-cylinder
Displacement: 221 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.06 x 3.75 inches
Compression Ratio: 5.5 : 1
Brake horsepower: 65 @ 3400 R.P.M.
3 main bearings
Mechanical valve lifters
Carburetor: Special Ford Detroit lubricator
downdraft
Transmission: Sliding gear with 3 forward
gears and 1 reverse
Wheelbase: 106 inches
Length: 165.5 inches
1938 Chevrolet Master Deluxe (2 door sedan)
Price: $750
Weight: 2915 lbs
Total Produced: 186,233
Engine: Cast iron inline 6-cylinder with
overhead valves
Displacement: 216.5 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.50 x 3.75 inches
Compression Ratio: 6.25 : 1
Brake horsepower: 85 @ 3200 R.P.M.
4 main bearings
Solid valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter 1V Model W1
Transmission: Floor shift manual with 3
forward gears and 1 reverse gear
Wheelbase: 112.25 inches
1940 Chevrolet Coupe (2 door)
Price: $699
Weight: 2915 lbs
Total Produced: 66,431
Engine: Cast iron inline 6-cylinder with
overhead valves
Displacement: 216.5 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.50 x 3.75 inches
Compression Ratio: 6.25 : 1
Brake horsepower: 85 @ 3400 R.P.M.
4 main bearings
Solid valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter IV Model W1-420S
Transmission: Manual Synchromesh with 3
forward gears and 1 reverse.
Wheelbase: 113 inches
1940 Chevrolet Roadster
(2 door coupe)
Price: #750
Weight: 2945 lbs
Total Produced: 46,628
Engine: Cast iron V-Inline 6-cylinder with
overhead valves
Displacement: 216.5 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.50 x 3.75 inches
Compression Ratio: 6.25 : 1
Brake horsepower: 85 @ 3400 R.P.M.
4 main bearings
Solid valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter IV Model W1-420S
Transmission: Manual Synchromesh with 3
forward gears and 1 reverse
Wheelbase: 113 inches
1940 Ford Deluxe (2 door Tudor Sedan)
Price: $765.00
Weight: 2927 lbs
Total Produced: 171,368
Engine: Cast iron V-Inline 8-cylinder
Displacement: 221 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.06 x 3.75 inches
Compression Ratio: 6.15 : 1
Brake horsepower: 85 x 3800 R.P.M.
3 main brearings
Mechanical valve lifters
Carburetor: Chandler-Groves 21A-9510A,
2bbl downdraft
Transmission: Sliding gear with 3 forward
gears and 1 reverse
Wheelbase: 112 inches
Length: 188.25 inches
1949 Chevrolet Styleline (2 door sedan)
Price: $1413
Weight: 3,070 lbs
Total Produced: 69,398
Engine: Cast iron Inline 6-cylinder with
overhead valves
Displacement: 216.5 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.50 x 3.75 inches
Compression Ratio: 6.5 : 1
Brake horsepower: 90 @ 3300 R.P.M.
4 main bearings
Solid valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter 1-barrel
Transmission: 3 speed Synchromesh
Wheelbase: 115 in.
Length: 197 in.
1949 Oldsmobile 88 (2 door club sedan)
Price: $2050
Weight: 3585 lbs
Total Produced: 28,707
Engine: Rocket V-8 with overhead valves
Bore and Stroke: 3.75 x 3.50 inches
Compression Ratio: 7.25 : 1
Horsepower: 135 @ 3,600 R.P.M.
Carburetor: dual downdraft fitted with
automatic choke
Transmission: Hydramatic transmission
Wheelbase: 119.5 inches
Length: 202 inches
1950 Pontiac Silver Streak
(2 door sedan coupe)
Price: $1742
Weight: 3464 lbs
Total Produced: N.A.
Engine: Cast iron L-head 8-cylinder
Displacement: 268.2 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.375 x 3.75 inches
Compression Ratio: 6.5 : 1
Brake horsepower: 108 @ 3600 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Solid valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter WCD-719-S 2 barrel
Transmission: 3 speed Synchromesh
with column shift
Wheelbase: 120 in.
Length: 202.5 in.
1952 Oldsmobile 88 (2 door sedan)
Price: $2050
Weight: 3565 lbs
Total Produced: 6,402
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 303 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.75 x 3.50 inches
Compression Ratio: 7.5 : 1
Brake horsepower: 145 @ 3600 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Hydraulic valve lifters
Carburetor: Rochester model BB or Carter
Transmission: 3-speed column shifted
Wheelbase: 120 in.
Length: 204 in.
1955 Chevrolet Bel Air Sport Coupe
(2 door hardtop sport coupe)
Price: $2067
Weight: 3195 lbs
Total Produced: 185,562
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 265 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.75 x 3.00 inches
Compression Ratio: 8.0 : 1
Brake horsepower: 162 @ 4400 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Hydraulic valve lifters
Carburetor: Rochester model 7008006
2-barrel
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 115 inches
Length: 195.6 inches
1958 Chevrolet Bel Air Impala
(2 door sport coupe)
Price: $2693
Weight: 3459 lbs
Total Produced: 125,480
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 283 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.875 x 3.00 inches
Compression Ratio: 8.5 : 1
Brake horsepower: 185 @ 4600 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Hydraulic valve lifters
Carburetor: Rochester 2-barrel
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 117.5 inches
Length: 209.1 inches
1955 Dodge Custom Royal
(2 door Lancer hardtop)
Price: $2518
Weight: 3480 lbs
Total Produced: 30,499
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 270 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.63 x 3.26 inches
Compression Ratio: 7.6 : 1
Brake horsepower: 175 @ 4400 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Hydraulic valve lifters
Carburetor: Stromberg 2-barrel Model
WW3-124
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 120 inches
Length: 212.1 inches
1955 Ford Fairlane Victoria (2 door)
Price: $2195
Weight: 3318 lbs
Total Produced: 113,372
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 272 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.62 x 3.30 inches
Compression Ratio: 7.6 : 1
Brake horsepower: 162 @ 4400 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Carburetor: Holley 2-barrel
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 115.5 inches
Length: 198.5 inches
1955 Mercury Monterey
(2 door hardtop coupe)
Price: $2465
Weight: 3510 lbs
Total Produced: 69,093
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 292 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.75 x 3.30 inches
Compression Ratio: 7.60 : 1
Brake horsepower: 188 @ 4400 R.P.M.
Carburetor: 4-barrel
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 119 inches
Length: 206.3 inches
1958 Chevrolet Corvette
(2 door sport coupe)
Price: $3120.00
Weight: 2,870 lbs
Total Produced: 3,467
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 265 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.75 x 3.00 inches
Compression Ratio: 9.25 : 1
Brake horsepower: 210 @ 5200 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Solid valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter Type WCFB 4-barrel
Model 2419S
Transmission: 3-speed manual floor shift
Wheelbase: 102 inches
Length: 168 inches
1958 Mercury custom (2 door sedan)
Price: $2351
Weight: 3505 lbs
Total Produced: 16,343
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 312 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.80 x 3.44 inches
Compression Ratio: 8.0 : 1
Brake horsepower: 210 @ 4600 R.P.M.
Carburetor: 4-barrel
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 119 inches
Length: 206.4 inches
1957 Ford Fairlane 500
(2 door club sedan)
Price: $2381
Weight: 3407 lbs
Total Produced: 93,753
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 272 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.62 x 3.30 inches
Compression Ratio: 8.6 : 1
Brake horsepower: 162 @ 4600 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Carburetor: Holley 2-barrel
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 118 inches
Length: 207.7 inches
1957 Ford Fairlane
(2 door sport coupe)
Price: $3408
Weight: 3134 lbs
Total Produced: 21,380
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 312 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.80 x 3.44 inches
Compression Ratio: 9.7 : 1
Brake horsepower: 245 @ 4500 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Carburetor: Holley 4-barrel
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 102 inches
Length: 181.4 inches
1961 Chevrolet Corvette
(2 door convertible)
Price: $3934
Weight: 2905 lbs
Total Produced: 10,939
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 283 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.87 x 3.00 inches
Compression Ratio: 9.5 : 1
Brake horsepower: 230 @ 4800 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Hydraulic valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter Type WCFB 4-barrel
Model 3779178
Transmission: 3-speed manual floor shift
Wheelbase: 102 inches
Length: 177.2 inches
1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200
(2 door hardtop coupe)
Price: $2137
Weight: 2605 lbs
Total Produced: 18,586
Engine: Cast iron Slant 6-cylinder with
overhead valves
Displacement: 170.9 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.406 x 3.125 inches
Compression Ratio: 8.2 : 1
Brake horsepower: 101 @ 4400 R.P.M.
4 main bearings
Solid valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter Ball and Ball Type BBS
1-barrel Model 3093S
Transmission: 3-speed manual floor shift
Wheelbase: 106.5 inches
Length: 183.7 inches
1962 Dodge Polara
(2 door hardtop coupe)
Price: $3019
Weight: 3315 lbs
Total Produced: N.A.
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead
valves
Displacement: 361 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 4.12 x 3.38 inches
Compression Ratio: 9.0 : 1
Brake horsepower: 305 @ 4800 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Hydraulic valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter AFB 3084S 4-barrel
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 116 inches
Length: 202 inches
1962 Plymouth Savoy (2 door sedan)
Price: $2206
Weight: 2930 lbs
Total Produced: 18,825
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 317.6 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 3.91 x 3.94 inches
Compression Ratio: 9.0 : 1
Brake horsepower: 230 @ 4400 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Solid valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter Type BBD 2-barrel
Model 3472S
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 116 inches
Length: 202 inches
1963 Chevrolet Corvette Sting Ray
(2 door fastback coupe)
Price: $4257.00
Weight: 2859 lbs
Total Produced: 10,594
Engine: Cast iron V-8 with overhead valves
Displacement: 327 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 4.00 x 3.25 inches
Compression Ratio: 10.5 : 1
Brake horsepower: 250 @ 4400 R.P.M.
5 main bearings
Hydraulic valve lifters
Carburetor: Carter Type WCFB 4-barrel
model 3501S
Transmission: 3-speed manual floor-shift
Wheelbase: 98 inches
Length: 175.2 inches
1963 Plymouth Valiant V-100
(2 door sedan)
Price: $1910
Weight: 2515 lbs
Total Produced: 32,761
Engine: Cast iron Inline 6-cylinder with
overhead valves
Displacement: 170.9 cu. in.
Bore and Stroke: 4.406 x 3.125 inches
Compression Ratio: 8.2 : 1
Brake horsepower: 101 @ 4400 1-barrel
4 main bearings
Carburetor: Carter Type BBS 1-barrel
Model 3675S
Transmission: 3-speed manual
Wheelbase: 106 inches
Length: 186.2 inches
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